Sunday, December 25, 2011

How To Replace Front Wheel Bearings - You Can Do That

!±8± How To Replace Front Wheel Bearings - You Can Do That

Recently the right front wheel bearing went bad on my 2002 Mazda 626. Apparently my oldest daughter hit a large pot hole bending the wheel and damaging the wheel bearing. I noticed a slight hum in the front end with a slight shutter as well, I thought that the tires needed to be balances and rotated, so I took it into the shop to be checked out. Well to my surprise I was told the bad news and what was worse was the amount they wanted to charge - over 0 to fix bearing and to replace the wheel. That is when I decided to do it myself.

Below I will help you by listing the tools you will need and steps on how to get it done.

Things you will need:

Large adjustable wrench

Channelocks

Bearing race driver tool

Various size punches

Socket and ratchet set

Assorted wrenches

A rags or two

New wheel bearings

Wheel bearing grease

New cotter pin

New grease seals

Wheel blocks

Safety glasses

A jack and a pair of jack stands

Even if the bearings are not making a noise it is always a good idea to have them inspected every 30,000 miles. I have it done when my breaks are replaced.

Okay let's get started.

Get all of your tools and supplies together before you begin and allow plenty of time to do the job.

Please take note that these are general instructions and consult the appropriate repair manual for your vehicle.

Always think safety first whenever you're working around machinery. Wear safety classes to protect your eyes and beware of hot objects, sharp items and hazardous materials. It is very, very important to never work on a car that is only supported by a jack, always place a sturdy foundation under the vehicle to prevent it from falling on you.

From this point on cleanliness is important. You do not want any dirt, sand or metal chips inside the hub.

1. Remove your disc brake calipers and caliper bridge to remove the rotor.

2. Remove the bearing cap. This is a press fit and to remove it grab it with your channelocks and work it back and forth until it pops off. Be careful not to crush it.

3. Once the cap is off you will see a cotter pin, remove the cotter pin and remove the retainer ring. If your vehicle has a castellated nut, you will not have a retaining ring.

4. Using your channelocks or adjustable wrench, remove the nut from the spindle.

5. Next remove the outer wheel bearing and washer.

6. Slide the rotor or drum off the spindle.

7. Remove the grease seal and take out the inner wheel bearing.

8. Wipe all the old grease from inside the hub.

9. Remove the bearing races from the hub.

10. Take a punch with a flat narrow tip and place it on the back of the race.

11. Tap the race out, alternating from side to side so it comes out evenly and doesn't get cocked in the hub.

12. Once it's out, flip the rotor or drum over and do the same for the other race.

13. Clean the inside of the hub with some rags.

14. Make sure the spindle is clean as well.

That's all there is to it. Like I mentioned earlier take your time and you will not get frustrated, good luck with your project.


How To Replace Front Wheel Bearings - You Can Do That

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Thursday, December 22, 2011

Paintless Dent Repair: Myths and Facts About Car Dent Repair and Insurance

!±8± Paintless Dent Repair: Myths and Facts About Car Dent Repair and Insurance

The long arm of car repair insurance doesn't stop at extended warranties or tire road hazard insurance. Marketing gurus have found all sorts of knick knacks to insure. Among the top are ding and dent protection plans. Ding and dent insurance is growing steadily, and addresses those unsightly shopping cart and parking lot dings.

Dings and dents are fairly synonymous terms, although a ding is smaller than a dent. You'll notice a dent. You'll need to squint, or catch the vehicle in the right angle or sunlight to see a ding. Some dings are smaller than eraser heads.

Like extended warranties or tire insurance, dent and ding protection plans promise to pay for damages in part or in full for a specific period of time. These plans are primarily sold by new car dealerships and cost a few hundred dollars.

Ding and Dent Repair: Paintless Dent Repair

Ding and dent repair is called PDR, short for Paintless Dent Repair. There are many companies that perform this service: Ding Doctor, Ding King, No Dents, Dent Wizard...the list goes on. Some are better then others, although ultimately it's up to the skill of the PDR technician. Prices are similar.

How is it done?

Most PDR techniques are non-intrusive. The PDR technicians use specially designed tools and gadgets to slip behind the damaged panels and manipulate and massage the damaged metal back to its original form.

Does it work?

Actually, it's incredible! It works so well that in the majority of cases the dings and dents are completely removed. They're invisible, gone, can't-believe-your-eyes fixed.

I saw a soccer-ball-sized dent removed from the rear fender of a 0,000 car. The dent also had a large crease, which makes repairs even harder. After thirty minutes there was no visible detection that a dent was ever there. The repair cost the client 0. Traditional body shop estimates were hovering at 00.

PDR positives

Very low cost compared to traditional body shops Same day repairs--even while-you-wait service No paint work, sanding, or traditional bodywork required Original paint remains--helps retain vehicles looks and value Body panels remain intact--maintaining structural integrity
PDR negatives

PDR does not address scratches or paint chips that are often associated with dings (Many PDR companies will address chips and scratches, but it's not PDR technology) Many areas of body panels are not accessible, so PDR is not an option Plastic bumpers or any plastic components can't be fixed with PDR techniques. Since the bumper is the most common area to get damaged, this is a significant downside of PDR technology. Some damage can occur to door panels, paint, interiors, window glass and hardware, although damage of any kind is rare.
Do you need PDR insurance?

God, no!

Should you get your dings fixed using PDR techniques?

Hell, yes!

Let me explain...

Insuring against dings and dents does not make economic sense. Ding repairs average around per ding. Some dings cost to 9 to repair. Two to four dings can run 0 to 0, depending on the size of the dent. Insurance at this level is just not necessary. Moreover, it's a gamble you will lose.

To benefit from a 0, two-year plan, your vehicle would need to sustain multiple "PDR repairable" dings or dents. Despite your coverage, you may not even notice the dings, making a claim impossible. Also, despite the amazing PDR techniques, they can't fix everything, especially the chips and scratches that so frequently accompany a ding--should dings even occur.

Yes, get your dings fixed with PDR (if they're bothering you), but don't buy an insurance plan.

Protection plan economics 101

An article by Terence O'Hara in the Washington Post is a wonderful piece on the insanity of protection plans, and is applicable here. He writes:

The decision to buy an extended warranty...defies the recommendations of economists, consumer advocates and product quality experts, who all warn that the plans rarely benefit consumers and are nearly always a waste of money.

'[Extended warranties and protection plans] make no rational sense,' Harvard economist David Cutler said. 'The implied probability [of an issue] has to be substantially greater than the risk that you can't afford to fix it or replace it. If you're buying a 0 item, for the overwhelming number of consumers that level of spending is not a risk you need to insure under any circumstances.'

...extended warranties play upon a basic human trait to avoid loss, even if it means sacrificing a possible future gain. In this case, the gain is all the other things of value that a consumer could buy with the money that was spent on a warranty

Fix your dings

Fix your dings and dents (if you want) as they come--maybe every spring. Fixing dings keeps your car looking pristine, and increases its value. But don't bother with a protection plan. Save your money.

Hold off on that paint job

Quality paintless dent repair is often a great substitute for those considering full paint jobs. Whenever possible, it's best to keep the original paint. Good PDR combined with a professional detail can restore vehicles to show room condition for less than 0.

Go with the best

Since 1983 Dent Wizard has been pioneering PDR technology. Their PDR technicians undergo extensive and ongoing training. The rates are reasonable and the quality is excellent. Always request a master PDR technician, as there are various levels of abilities.

Check with local dealers

Dealerships in your area may offer Dent Wizard. Your vehicle does not have to be of the same make as the dealership. In other words, you can bring your Chevy to a Ford dealer for PDR work.

Myths

Do it yourself paintless dent repair is easy.

No it 's not. It requires training, skill, and experience. There are many who practice PDR techniques who crack or flake the paint, or who create ripples in the metal.

The PDR products sold on TV do the same thing.

No! Not even close. There's no good substitute for the art of PDR.

Scratch and dent repair are the same thing.

No. A ding is a small dent, which can often be repaired via paintless dent repair procedures. A scratch is an actual break in the surface of the clear coat or paint, requiring traditional body shop techniques, or touch up paint.

It's easy to learn how to repair dents on cars.

Maybe for some, but it's a skill that few master. Dent Wizard offers a great training program. The management and staff are top notch.

What's the best car dent removing protection plan?

Money in your bank account!


Paintless Dent Repair: Myths and Facts About Car Dent Repair and Insurance

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Saturday, December 17, 2011

(2) 2.0" ATV Wheel Spacers with 4/110 bolt pattern for Yamaha Rhino Polaris Honda Suzuki

!±8±(2) 2.0" ATV Wheel Spacers with 4/110 bolt pattern for Yamaha Rhino Polaris Honda Suzuki

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Post Date : Dec 17, 2011 09:36:05
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These wheel spacers work with the following ATVs plus more that are not listed;KawasakiKFX400 (2003-2008)PolarisScrambler 50 (2003-2008)Predator 90 (2002-2008)Sportsman 90 (2001-2007)Predator 500 (2004-2008)Outlaw 500 (2002-2008)SuzukiLTZ 250/ Ozark 2wd (1991-2008)400 Eiger 2&4wd (2002-2008)LTZ 400 (2003-2008)LTZ 450 (2006-2008)YamahaRhinoYFM 250 Moto-4(1989)YFB 250D Timber Wolf 2wd (1992-1998)YFB 250D Timber Wolf 4wd (1995-2002)YFM 250 Bear Tracker(1999-2008)YFM 350 Wolverine(1995-2008)YFM 350 Moto-4(1993-2005)YFM 350 Bruin 2&4wd (2004-2008)YFM 350/400 Big Bear (1987-2008)YFM 400 Kodiak 2&4wd (1993-2008)YFM 450 Kodiak 4wd (2003-2008)YFM 600/650 Grizzly 4wd (1998-2008)HondaATC 200X(1983-1987)TRX 200 (1990-1993)&(1996-1997)TRX 200SX (1986-1988)ATC 250 Big Red (1985)TRX 250 Big Red (1985-1987)ATC 250SX (1985-1987)ATC 250R (1983-1986)TRX 250R (1986-1989)TRX 250X (1986-1992)TRX 250D & ES Recon (1997-2006)TRX 250EX (2000-2008)TRX 300EX (1993-2008)TRX 300 2&4wd (1988-2000)ATC 350X(1985-1986)TRX 350 4wd (1986-1992)Rancher 350ES 2&4wd (2000-2008)Rancher AT400 2&4wd (2004-2008)TRX 400EX (1999-2008)TRX 400D Foreman (1996-2002)TRX 433D Foreman 2&4wd (2003)TRX 450S & ES Foreman 2&4wd (1998-2008)TRX 450R (2004-2008)TRX 500 Rubicon 4x4 (2000-2008)TRX 650 Rubicon 4x4 (2003-2008)Odyssey (1977-1981)

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